Is there something fishy about the smoked salmon in YOUR supermarket? Prices are soaring - and, as Anne Shooter reveals, some brands are resorting to unsavoury short-cuts

When I was a girl, as a special treat my grandmother, who was rather sophisticated, would take me to the Jewish delicatessen at the end of her street to buy smoked salmon.
The old man in the white coat would slice the fish with expert precision, interleaving each long, slender strip with greaseproof paper. 
Later, with strong tea served through a strainer into porcelain cups for the grown-ups, and lemonade in a cut-glass tumbler for me, she would serve the salmon — with its beautiful, sunset hue — on crustless brown bread triangles, evenly spread with butter.

Anne Shooter is looking for the perfect smoked salmon just like her grandmother used to give her when she was a child

Thirty years on and smoked salmon is no longer an occasional treat. Today, thanks to salmon suppliers going to extraordinary lengths to keep their product competitively priced — often at the expense of taste and quality — it is available in every supermarket for the same price as a box of cereal.

 

‘Rather than using wild salmon from Scotland, we now have the much fattier farmed salmon, and there is no comparison,’ says Chris Leftwich, chief inspector to The Fishmongers’ Company.
Still smoking top-quality salmon the traditional way is Lance Forman, of H. Forman & Son, whose family business has been in the East End of London since 1905. He supplies Fortnum & Mason and The Savoy.
‘Smoked salmon was a gourmet product that came about to preserve Scottish wild salmon, the king of fish,’ he says. ‘But now mass production has taken over the industry. 

Anne criticised the loophole in country of origin rules. Salmon farmed in Norway but smoked in Scotland can be listed as Scottish salmon

‘Forty five per cent of the salmon sold in the UK now is Norwegian, which is OK in itself, but how long does it take for a fish to get from Norway to the factory? Three days minimum. No wonder it tastes bad.’
One problem is ‘Country of Origin’ means where the food last went through a ‘substantial change’. So if it’s Norwegian salmon, but smoked in Scotland, the manufacturer can state the country of origin as Scotland.
‘In England, we are strict about how the fish are killed, but in some farms in Norway fish are killed cruelly, in carbon dioxide baths where they are starved of oxygen and thrash about as they are dying, breaking down the flesh, then they’re filleted by machine,’ Lance says.
Lance, who smokes only wild or top-quality farmed salmon, says while he cures salmon by sprinkling it with salt to draw out the water, others use brine injections to avoid weight loss, which give a salty taste but wet texture.
He talks of liquid smoke being sprayed on fish ‘like a spray tan’ rather than smoking it gently for 24 hours. And, he says, many suppliers cure with sugar, which retains moisture, covers up the taste from salt injections and counterbalances the bitterness of fierce smoking or the liquid smoke ‘tan’.
Then there is the pellicle. This is the crusty layer formed during smoking on the outside of the fish, which Lance says should always be removed. 
‘It reduces the weight of the fish, though, which means it sells for less,’ says Lance. ‘So some smoked salmon still has it on — and it is revolting.’
Other smoked salmon contains brown meat, which comes from blood vessels. It has a more fishy taste and tends to go off more quickly. It would never be served in a good restaurant. 
However, many supermarkets incorporate it with the pellicle to add weight and price.  
After the news last week that the price of salmon is to rise after Norway’s harsh winter, I’m determined to make sure I’m getting value for money. So I decided to put the supermarket selections to the test.

 

H. Forman & Son Smoked Scottish Salmon (Waitrose), £5.99 for a 125g pack, £4.80 for 100g
Made with Scottish farmed salmon and salt. Smoked salmon just how I remember it. Long, elegant slices, cut so thinly they are translucent. This is moist but not too fatty and very mildly salty with a hint of smoke. Soft and utterly delicious. A beautiful thing. 5/5  

H. Forman & Son Smoked Scottish Salmon (left) Ocado Oak-Smoked Salmon (right)

Ocado Oak-Smoked Salmon, £4.95 for 200g or three packs for £10, £2.48 per 100g

Farmed in Scotland and Norway, made with salmon, salt and sugar. The pellicle and brown meat is still attached. The salmon is flabby and wet and the slices are thick. Truly horrible. 0/5
Ocado says: ‘We leave the pellicle on to cater for more traditional consumers. The salmon is produced in England by an artisan supplier and smoked in a kiln using oak from sustainable sources.’

 

Heston from Waitrose Lapsang Souchong Tea-Smoked Salmon, £4.49 for 100g

Contains Scottish farmed salmon, sea salt and sugar (the tea is used to create smoke). The texture of this isn’t bad, although the pellicle has been retained, but it tastes of tobacco. It isn’t pleasant to eat. 2/5 
Waitrose says: ‘Our cold smoke process takes 10-15 hours, so the pellicle is, in fact, just a slightly firmer edge that we think is an important part of the product.’

Heston from Waitrose Lapsang Souchong Tea-smoked Salmon (left) and Young's Scottish Smokehouses Smoked Salmon Slices (right)

Young’s Scottish Smokehouses Smoked Salmon Slices, £10 for 300g — on offer for £5, £1.66 for 100g (Waitrose and Ocado) 

Contains smoked salmon ‘from Scotland or Norway’ and salt. This has a horrible texture — it is too soft and breaks when you try to pick it up. It has fatty white stripes and is greasy with no smoke taste. 0/5
Young’s says: ‘Our salmon is smoked in Scotland with real wood smoke. We do not inject brine; we either dry or wet salt the salmon in the traditional way.’

 

Kinvara Organic Irish Salmon, £6.65 for 150g,  £4.43 for 100g (Waitrose and kinvarasmokedsalmon.com)

Made from Irish organic salmon and sea salt. This has lovely, long slices and no fatty white lines, though it does have some brown ‘meat’ attached and a jelly-like texture I wasn’t keen on. Good flavour, though, and at last a salmon cured traditionally without sugar! 3/5

Kinvara Organic Irish Salmon (left) and Inverawe Smoked Scottish Salmon (right)

Inverawe Smoked Scottish Salmon, £4.79 for 100g (Waitrose and smokedsalmon.co.uk)

Contains Scottish salmon and salt. This has a royal warrant and rightly so. The salmon comes in long, thin slices, it is not remotely greasy and is very flavourful with a strong, smoky taste. It’s quite salty, too — definitely one for those who like a robust salmon. 4/5

 

M&S Lochmuir Scottish Oak and Applewood Smoked Salmon, £7.39 for 8 slices (200g), £3.69 per 100g

Contains Scottish salmon, salt and demerara sugar. This salmon was surprisingly bad. The pellicle was left on, the slice was too thick and I even found a bone in it. The flavour was good, though — rich and smoky. 2/5 
M&S says: ‘Our customers have told us they enjoy salmon with a smokier flavour and a meaty texture — this is done by the traditional method of retaining the pellicle where the smoky flavour is concentrated.’

M&S Scottish Oak and Applewood Smoked Salmon (left) and Tesco Finest Scottish Smoked Salmon with lemon and peppercorns (right)

Tesco Finest Scottish Smoked Salmon with lemon and peppercorns, £5 for 120g,  two for £8, £4.17 for 100g
This contains farmed Scottish salmon, salt, sugar, lemon zest and peppercorns. It has no brown bits, no pellicle and is soft with a good balance of salt and smoke. The lemon and peppercorn trim complements the salmon extremely well. Very good indeed. 4/5

 

Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Scottish Salmon smoked over chestnut wood, topped with lemon-infused basil oil, £4.79 for 120g, £3.99 for 100g

Contains salmon, salt, lemon-infused rapeseed oil, basil and sugar. This is so soft it is difficult to separate into slices. It has no salt or smoke flavour. 1/5  
Sainsbury’s says: ‘All our smoked salmon are produced in Scotland and naturally smoked for several hours over woodchips in kilns. We feel the sugar gives a more rounded and rich flavour.’

Sainsbury's taste the Difference Scottish Salmon (left) and Morrison's Fishmonger Oak-Smoked Salmon (right)

Morrisons Oak-Smoked Salmon, £2.99 for 100g

Contains Scottish salmon, salt and sugar. This is too soft, too greasy and cut in uneven slices that are too thick at the bottom. It tastes fishy with a slight tang. No redeeming features. 0/5 
Morrisons says: ‘Sugar and salt are added to help remove moisture, which can cause bacteria to form, as well as adding flavour. The fish is smoked for 8-16 hours and the pellicle is kept on because some customers prefer it.’

Could children diagnosed with ADHD just need better sleep? More youngsters than ever are prescribed drugs for hyperactivity

Kid you not: Sleep deprivation, especially in children, doesn't cause lethargy, but can cause similar problems to ADHD

More children - and adults - than ever are being diagnosed with Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder (ADHD).

Yet many of those may not have the behavioural disorder but could instead be suffering from sleep deprivation, says a leading U.S. doctor. He estimates more than a third of children and a quarter of adults diagnosed with ADHD actually have sleep problems.

Sleep deprivation, especially in children, does not - as might be expected - cause lethargy, but very similar problems to ADHD, including hyperactivity, an inability to focus, aggression and forgetfulness.

The similarity between the symptoms, coupled with many doctors' poor understanding of sleep disorders, is what is causing the confusion in some patients, says Vatsal Thakkar, a clinical assistant professor of psychiatry at the New York University School of Medicine.

'While there is no doubt that many people have ADHD, a substantial proportion of cases are really sleep disorders in disguise,' he says.

ADHD is characterised by problems with attention, concentration and impulsiveness. Around 5 per cent of British children are thought to be affected, with prescriptions for drugs to treat them rising by 70  per cent between 2005 and 2011.
Prescriptions for Ritalin, the most popular drug for ADHD, have quadrupled in the past decade, with children as young as three taking the powerful medication.

ADHD is most commonly diagnosed between the ages of three and seven and is four times more common in boys than girls. In around half of cases, the disorder continues into adult life.

But now some experts are questioning whether the real problem is poor quality sleep. Numerous studies have shown that many children with ADHD also have breathing problems during sleep such as snoring and apnoea - where breathing becomes slow or interrupted by the muscles and soft tissue in the throat collapsing, causing a blockage - and are more likely to have disrupted delta sleep.

This is the deep, rejuvenating kind which starts about 30 to 50 minutes after we fall asleep. Children need delta sleep for proper growth and development.

One study, published in 2004 in the journal Sleep, looked at 34 children with ADHD. Every one showed a deficit of delta sleep, compared with only a handful of the 32 children in the study who didn't have the disorder.

Meanwhile, a study of more than 11,000 British children published last year found those who suffered breathing problems during sleep in infancy were more likely to have behavioural difficulties later in life.

No 'off' button: The distraction of 24-hour TV, computer games and mobile phones is a major factor in child sleep deprivation

These children were 20 to 60 per cent more likely to have behavioural problems at the age of four, and 40 to 100 per cent more likely to have such problems at seven.

Tellingly, when sleep problems are resolved, the behavioural problems attributed to ADHD can disappear. A study published in the journal Paediatrics in 2006 found that removing tonsils to improve sleep seems to banish ADHD symptoms. A year after the surgery, half of the children who had previously been diagnosed with ADHD no longer had it.

Professor Thakkar's theory is supported by British sleep experts, who say it is no coincidence that the rise in ADHD diagnoses in the Nineties came at a time when people were getting less sleep.

The latest figures suggest that the number of adults who sleep fewer than seven hours each night has risen from 2 per cent in 1960 to more than 35 per cent in 2011.

According to Dr Neil Stanley, a British sleep expert, children today get at least an hour less sleep than they did 100 years ago. Many ten-year-olds do not get the recommended ten hours a night.

The distraction of 24-hour TV, computer games and mobile phones is a major factor because they not only stimulate the mind but suppress levels of melatonin, a hormone that helps to regulate sleeping and waking cycles.

The light-sensitive cells at the back of the eye are more sensitive to the light emitted by screens - which tricks the body into thinking that it's still daytime, so it disrupts the production of melatonin.

'Ask any parent to describe a sleep-deprived child and the characteristics are not dissimilar to ADHD,' he says. 'Some children do have ADHD, but others are sleep-deprived and we are calling it ADHD.

'Some perfectly normal children who, for whatever reason, are chronically sleep-deprived, are being diagnosed with ADHD by their GPs. Many doctors also  have very little knowledge of  sleep disorders.'

Slee-pea children: 'Some perfectly normal children who, for whatever reason, are chronically sleep-deprived, are being diagnosed with ADHD'

More controversial is his belief that it may also be easier for doctors to tell parents their child has a medical condition rather than that he or she needs more sleep, with the parenting implications that involves.

'For some children it may be a diagnosis of convenience. Yet by misdiagnosing sleep-deprived patients as having ADHD, we are not only doing a disservice to those who really have ADHD but may be treating thousands of patients with poor sleep with medications designed to control or modify daytime behaviour.'

Furthermore, drugs for treating ADHD can have side-effects, including poor appetite, stomach pain and, in rare cases, heart problems, chest pain, liver problems and suicidal thoughts.

Professor Thakkar's interest in the link between ADHD and sleep disorders was prompted by his own experience after being diagnosed with ADHD as an adult.

For nearly a decade he suffered from profound cognitive lethargy and difficulty focusing - he needed a daily nap and spent much of the weekend sleeping.

Initially he was told that the problems were the result of psychological issues. Then, in 2005, he was diagnosed with ADHD.

Not convinced, he underwent a sleep study which showed, at the age of 33, that he had an unusual form of narcolepsy, a neurological disorder which usually causes intermittent, uncontrollable episodes of falling asleep.

'I'd never fallen asleep while eating or talking, but it turned out that just 5 per cent of my sleep was delta sleep. With the proper treatment my cognitive problems came to an end. My daytime focus is remarkably improved.'

Professor Thakkar says there is more going on in our nocturnal lives than we realised.

'However, it is impossible to know how well you sleep unless you undergo tests - that's because sleep is partly biological and partly behavioural,' he says.

'Even if parents and children do all the right things to make sure they get enough sleep, they may be getting too little quality sleep.

'Limiting time on devices, especially in the evenings, is a good first step for children with these types of symptoms.'

If that doesn't work, parents should ensure that their child gets enough sleep for their age (ten to 11 hours for school-age children, seven to eight for adults).

If that does not help, seek medical help and consider undergoing a sleep study.

Is Kim and Kanye's daughter set to appear on Kris Jenner's chat show? Momager 'tells well-wishers to tune in for details on baby'

She gave birth to her first child in the early hours of Saturday morning.
And the world is waiting on tenterhooks for Kim Kardashian to reveal the name and first picture of her daughter.
It is unknown if the reality star and boyfriend Kanye West are keeping things under wraps because they have signed a magazine deal.

Keeping it in the family?: According to reports Kim Kardashian and Kanye West's baby could be set to appear on Kris Jenner's new chat show

However it looks like they could be keeping things in the family as according to reports Kim’s mother Kris Jenner has told fans to tune into her new chat show for ‘exclusive details’ on the youngster.
A source told Radar Online: ‘Kris told well-wishers to tune into her new talk show to get all the inside scoop about Kim’s newborn baby.
‘When someone asked Kris if the baby would make an appearance on the show, she demurely said “you will have to watch”.’
The insider added: ‘Kris was asked if she had any pictures of the baby, and she revealed she did, but didn’t want share with anyone.’

New mother: The reality star gave birth prematurely in the early hours of Saturday morning

The 57-year-old momager’s TV show, imaginatively titled Kris, will kick off airing on July 15.
Kanye has previously stated that he doesn’t want his child to appear on TV, but it has been claimed that he and his 32-year-old girlfriend could be at loggerheads if Kris wants the baby on her new show.
A source claimed: ‘If Kris wants Kim and the baby to appear on the show, she will make it happen. Kim has a very hard time ever saying no to her mom. She wants Kris’ talk show to be a success, and wants to help any way she possibly can.
‘This could put Kim at odds with Kanye, but Kris isn’t worried about that. Kris knows Kim will do it in the end because she is so close to her.’

Under wraps: The celebrity couple are yet to reveal a name or photo of their newborn baby

Kris attended the Daytime Emmy Awards on Sunday where she told E!: ‘We're happy, everybody's good and she's beautiful.’
The 57-year-old then went on to say that the world will be meeting the little one ‘soon’ and added: ‘Yeah, it just all came down yesterday, it's a lot.’
While an appearance on Kris by the latest addition to the Kardashian clan remains to be seen, the star has apparently already signed up Betty White.
The pair were spotted chatting at the awards bash on Sunday and a source has claimed: ‘Kris and Betty were both presenting at the Emmys and hit it off backstage. They were complimenting each other on their outfits.
‘They couldn't stop talking about how good the other looked and they got along great, like old friends! Kris asked Betty to be one of her first guests on her new talk show and she happily accepted.’

Grandmother's footsteps: Kris attended the Daytime Emmy Awards on Sunday where she said her new granddaughter is 'beautiful'

Making friends: The momager has apparently signed up Betty White to be one of the first guests on Kris

The insider added: ‘Kris mentioned how happy she was about being a new grandma. She's over the moon about Kim and Kanye's baby.’
Many of Kim and Kanye’s family members and celebrity friends have rushed to congratulate the new parents.
Beyoncé wrote on her Tumblr on Monday: 'Congratulations Kim & Kanye, enjoy this beautiful moment together – Beyoncé.'
Meanwhile Kim’s younger sister Khloe tweeted: 'I can not even begin 2 describe the miracle that is now apart of our family. Mommy/baby are healthy & resting. We appreciate all of the love.'
She added: 'More info will come when the time is right! Thank you all for understanding! We love you all dearly! Overwhelmed with love right now.'

Only the best for baby: Kim's assistant was apparently seen bringing home a car seat for the child on Monday

Well wishes: Beyonce posted a sweet note on her Tumblr in honour of her famous friends

Close knit family: Khloe also gushed about the newest addition to the Kardashian clan on her Twitter page

The great cover-up! Make-up free Kate Upton conceals her famous curves after frolicking around in a tiny string bikini

Her enviable curves are what put her on the map.

But Kate Upton kept her assets under wraps as she headed out in New York City on Monday.
Opting for a casual look without losing her feminine flare, the 21-year-old model concealed her bikini body in a thin grey blouse and skinny pastel pink trousers.

Hiding her curves: Kate Upton dressed conservatively as she headed out in New York City on Monday

She teamed the pieces with a pair of white flats featuring black bows on the toes, and toted an embossed blue Celine tote.
Going with her laid back vibe, Kate had her blonde locks swept into a loose 'do and covered her eyes with silver aviator sunglasses.
This was ensemble was much more conservative than what Kate wore on Sunday.

Designer duds: The model carried along a Celine tote

As she filmed an ocean-front scene in The Hamptons for her upcoming film The Other Woman, the supermodel showed off her famous curves in a particularly tiny two-piece.
The string bikini was nearly identical to the one she famously donned on the cover of last year's issue of the Sports Illustrated swimsuit issue -- making her a household name.
Directed by Nick Cassavetes, the comedy is due out on April 25 next year and tells the story of a woman who realises she is not her boyfriend's primary lover.
Cameron Diaz and Leslie Mann play the spurned duo who form an unlikely friendship as they team up to get revenge on the love rat who has been seeing a string of women as well as them.
Also making a splash is Nicki Minaj, who plays Cameron's opinionated assistant at her New York law firm.

What she's known for: Kate bared her bikini body as she filmed scenes for her upcoming film The Other Woman in The Hamptons, New York on Sunday

Denise Richards 'has been parenting troubled Brooke Mueller's twin boys Bob and Max for over a year'

Denise Richards has been raising Brooke Mueller's children for over a year.

The 42-year-old actress was granted temporary legal guardian for her ex-husband Charlie Sheen and Brooke's twin sons, Bob and Max, when child protective services removed them from the socialite's home last month.

However, it has now emerged that Denise - who has two daughters, Lola, eight, and Sam, nine, with Charlie - has actually spent far more time with the four-year-old boys than Brooke herself over the last nine months, due to her struggles with drug addiction.

Motherly figure: Denise Richards has reportedly been raising Brooke Mueller's twin sons, Max and Bob (pictured) for over a year

A source told RadarOnline.com: 'Initially, Brooke willingly placed the boys in Denise's care because she was going in and out of rehab, and using drugs.

'Child protective services has now asked Denise to give specific dates that she had been taking care of the twins, in advance of a big custody hearing in July.

'The boys have spent more time with Denise than with their own biological mother for the last nine months. The boys are a part of Denise's family, and they are extremely happy in her care.'

Denise also has an adopted daughter, 23-month-old Eloise.

The way they were: Brooke Mueller and Charlie Sheen, right, had the twins together

Brooke is said to be worried she is going to lose the $55,000-a-month child support fees she receives from Anger Management star Charlie.

The insider added: 'Brooke doesn't have any money saved and lives month-to-month on the child support. There is no way Brooke is going to get custody back of the twins any time soon.'

The case is set to go to court in July, where social workers are allegedly going to say Brooke should only be granted supervised visitation after leaving rehab as well as being forced to undertake weekly random drug tests.

Not fit to be a mother? Brooke has been in and out of rehab for years

Brooke checked in to the Betty Ford Clinic in California last month for her 21st rehab stint but left the facility recently because she was unhappy at being asked to do chores and it was 'too hard.'
A source told RadarOnline: “Brooke didn’t tell anyone, including her lawyer, that she had left Betty Ford.
'Brooke hated Betty Ford because she was required to do daily chores, which she resented. She complained that Betty Ford was just too hard. Betty Ford is hardcore and Brooke just doesn’t respond well in situations where she can’t call the shots.'

Juggler: Denise already has three kids of her own, Eloise (in her arms), Sam Sheen (second right), Lola Rose Sheen (far left)

However, Brooke's decision to leave rehab could also affect the state of her children.
The insider added: “This could have a serious impact on Brooke’s bid to get custody of the twins. Brooke just doesn’t seem to be taking get sober that seriously.
'Her doctors at Betty Ford advised her not to leave, but she did anyway. Her therapists will be submitting an extensive report about Brooke’s time at Betty Ford and it won’t be glowing, that is for sure.'

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